Jig guide – techniques, equipment, bulk jigs, and jig heads

JIG CASTING

By far the most popular jigging technique. Jig casting is used to fish near the bottom or in middle water. The fish are provoked to attack by using various reel and rod techniques. Jig casting is primarily done from an anchored boat. Jig casting is effective throughout the open water season, and the targets include zander, pike, and perch.

DROP SHOT JIGGING

Largely based on the same idea as jig casting. However, this technique can occasionally be significantly more effective than casting. In drop shot jigging, the jig stays above the weight, allowing us to fish effectively in areas where the bottom is more difficult. Drop shot jigging can be done throughout the open water season, and the targets include zander, pike, and perch. Read more about drop shot jigging.

MICRO JIGGING

This technique works best when perch and zander are swimming in shallow water or chasing schools of smelt in middle water. The equipment used is significantly lighter and more responsive than those used for regular jig casting. The jigs vary in size from 1 to 2 inches and the jig heads weigh just 1–6 grams. This means that particular responsiveness is required from the equipment. Micro jigging offers enjoyable experiences even against smaller opponents!

VERTICAL JIGGING

Vertical jigging is a particularly fine and effective style of fishing that is becoming increasingly popular. Here, the jig is not cast but instead lowered into the field of vision of a fish you have spotted using a sonar. Various techniques are then used alongside frequent lure color changes to provoke the fish to attack. The use of a sonar introduces an interesting aspect to the style, as it allows you to monitor the jig and fish in real time.

PRECISION VERTICAL JIGGING

A challenging style of fishing that also offers better opportunities for the catch of a lifetime than fishing near the bottom (precision jigging is done in middle water). You start off by scanning the water at a range of 3–10 meters trying to find large fish arcs. Once you have spotted a large fish, you try to stay above your target and lower the jig into its field of vision, provoking it to attack. Large 7–10” jigs are typically used in precision jigging.

JIG FISHING EQUIPMENT

Jig fishing is primarily done near the bottom. It consists of using various rod and reel techniques to move the jig in a way that provokes fish to attack. It is important to choose the right equipment to ensure fun and effective fishing.

• Zander rod: 165–210 cm long 1/3-actioned rod will provide enough rigidity for hooking even larger zander.
• Perch rod: 150–190 cm long, 2/3-actioned rod. For perch fishing you can use a significantly softer rod to prevent the fish from shaking itself loose.
• Pike rod: 200–240 cm long, 2/3-actioned rod. The rod must offer sufficient power and rigidity for successfully fighting even larger pike.
• Reel: 500–1000 size reel for perch, 1000–1500 for zander, 2500 for pike. The reel must be equipped with an anti-reverse bail to ensure the best possible feel and prevent the fish from getting slack during the strike back.
• Line: Without question choose braided line: Use 0.08–0.10 mm line for perch, 0.10–0.16 mm for zander, and 0.16–0.24 mm for pike. Choose a line that is highly visible, such as a fluorescent yellow option, as that will allow you to detect bites easier. One of the advantages of using a braided line is its non-stretching quality, which improves the feel and enables more effective hooking. Thinner lines also allow for longer casting and are less vulnerable to wind while fishing.
• Leader: A leader made from 0.35–0.70 mm fluorocarbon line is often used with braided lines. The leader will improve abrasion resistance in rocky areas, is more resilient against the teeth of pike/zander, absorbs shocks, and stabilizes the jig’s movement slightly. 50–150 cm is a suitable length for the leader.
  For pike fishing, we recommend using a G.T.R. Leader that is strong enough for the sharp teeth of pike.
• Snaps: The leader is attached to a snap, to which the jig head is attached. A fly snap made from thick wire is a solid option, as even larger fish cannot bite through it and jigs work best with this type of snap.

CHOOSING THE COLOR OF YOUR JIG

Kalle Paavola: “Choosing the model and color of jig is always a challenge if you have no prior information of the waters where you are fishing. Nevertheless, here are some tips I have found to be quite effective. Remember to approach any situation with an open mind, testing all possible and even “impossible” combinations.

Start off with a 3–4” fish jig, such as K.P Lazy Shad 3” and choose a jig head that ensures you get a good feel of the bottom. At first, choose a design that is a close imitation of a prey fish. If you are fishing with other people, each person should choose a different design to start with, as that will allow you to find effective combinations more quickly.

I recommend waiting until the so-called indicator jig has seen some action before you start to test for effective colors. Even the most effective option will not provide results if the spot is empty of fish. Also keep an eye on the weather and the sky, as those may provide some ideas for potentially effective designs.
I prefer to rely on the surrounding colors and finding the right design in the moment, which means that the most suitable option may change several times during the day, based on the light conditions and fish activity. Once you have found an effective colorway, you can start to pinpoint the best shape, as you know that the colors are right.

Jig markers are an essential tool. They allow you to create endless effects for your jigs. Add stripes, shading, and whatever you can think to effective designs. You can even create your own perfect jig!

Choosing the right jig head is one of the most important aspects of jig fishing!

Here are some guidelines for choosing the right jig head.

Remember to account for the depth, wind, currents, and water temperature.

In colder water, slow movements are more likely to be effective, which means that you should choose a jig head that is smaller than suggested by the guidelines. In turn, when the water is warmer, you might want to try a heavier jig head for harder and faster movement. You can choose a significantly higher jig head when fishing in flowing water.

It is important to ensure that you retain a good feel for the bottom at all times while casting.

Also remember to account for the line in jigging!

The enclosed chart is based on 0.12 mm braided line with a 1.5-meter fluorocarbon leader that is 0.40 mm thick.

If you are using a stronger line, the surface area and wind impact is increased and the jig head will be more buoyant in the water, thus reducing the sinking speed of the jig.

An indicative depth/weight chart is printed on the back of K.P jig head bags

Depth / Weight of the jig head

• 1 m / 3 g
• 2 m / 5 g
• 3 m / 5–7 g
• 4 m / 7–10 g
• 5 m / 10–12 g
• 6 m / 10–12–15 g
• 7 m / 10–12–15 g
• 8 m / 12–15–17 g
• 9 m / 12–15–17 g
• 10 m /15–17–20g